July 20, 2003

triveni sangam

Here I am in a rather hot and extremely dirty Madurai. We (my cousin Gaurav and I) missed the Meenakshi temple this morning because we woke up too late so now we’re just killing some afternoon time in a town thats mostly closed because its Sunday afternoon.

So far we’ve breezed by Kovalam beach in Kerala and then Kanyakumari where you run out of India in 3 of the 4 cardinal direction and then Rameshwaram which is a city because of the temple and now here we are in Madurai which is a city by itself that just happens to have a huge temple.

Kovalam was magnificent with its black sand beaches and 30 feet tall waves spurred on by the monsoon. Just magnificent to watch walls of turquoise water crash not 100 feet from the bed in your hotel room. Other than that that town was not really alive since this is the off season. There was also a quaint lighthouse that we didn’t get a chance to visit.

From Kovalam we took a cab to Kanyakumari through what is unbearably beautiful countryside with rocky mountains and banana plantation as far as the eye can see all dotted generously with coconut palms all in a rich green monsoon hue. On the way to Kanyakumari we stopped by the Hanuman temple in Suchindrum where men have to enter shirtless. It was interesting and devotional all without wearing a shirt. Kanyakumari was in fact very peaceful but commercial in a very haphhazard sort of way. Visiting the Swami Vivekanand rock and the other Thirivalluapar(sp?) rock was stunning in that ‘no words’ sort of way.

From Kanyakumari we took a 10.5 hour ride on a Tamil Nadu state bus to Rameshwaram. That bus ride was by far the most uncomfortable yet interesting bus experience I’ve ever had. I got to fight with the guy behind me for open window rights, Gaurav stopped a crazy woman from jumping off the bus as it was going full speed, and someone pooped on the stairs closest to us. Other than that it was all good. Oh yea my white t-shirt was a diry grey when we got to Rameshwaram. As soon as we got there and checked into a hotel we rushed out to take a dip in the Bay of Bengal which is considered to be the Ganga since thats the body of water the Ganga empties into. Then we went into the Ram temple for the worship which was cool since the temple is so old that I count that high. I’ll have to write about money and faith in India some other time but yea it really got to me that you have to pop Rs. 10 every 4th step in the temple.

From Rameshwaram we took a 3.5 hour train ride to Madurai where we crashed into a decent hotel at around 1:30p and slept like logs till 11:30a today. SInce then we’ve only had lunch and had some film developed. We leave to go see the temple in half an hour and then leave for Koddiakannal at 6p.

Hopefully another update during the trip otherwise from Bombay.

Posted by Mr. Keyur at 06:00 AM | Comments (0) | TrackBack

July 16, 2003

cloudy outlook

Its half past midnight here in Daman, the whole house is sleeping, including the dog and here I am posting to the page. Its really been a fun past few days. My cousin Kartik (dad’s eldest sister’s son) has a very decent computer here with a very reasonable internet connection so before I start ranting go check out all the new pictures, 101 to be exact, at photos.keyurp.com. Its been super painful uploading them, but at the same time its been worth it. Also its given me the opportunity to empty my camera. I’ve got all the photos till now burned onto a CD.

So yea Daman has been a great joy. This is where I took the very first vacation of my life as a wee child of maybe 3-4 months. Ever since then I have been coming here to my foi’s place during summer vacations. To come back here completes the picture of coming home. All the food and conversations and memories and now my cousin Kartik has his own kid, so I’ve got my very own nephew to play with, not to mention the adorable british cocker spaniel. Also while here I took a trip to our family temple of Ram bhagvan in a little village north of here called Kharwasa, its close to Surat. Here as part of a ritual I am to pay homage to the the maharaja of the temple who then gives me a beaded necklace called a ‘kanthi’ and my own mantra which cannot be written down and cannot be told to anyone. Its all part of growing up and accepting my place as the eldest heir to my grandfather’s family. Hopefully my kaka’s (dad’s youngest brother) son will come and go through this same ritual when hes older and understands whats going on. My family has apparently been worshipping at the Ram temple in Kharwasa since it was founded.

I also visited Valsad which is where my father’s family is from and thus where I am from for all intents and purposes. Everything is so much more industrialized and obviously there are just a ton more people, the place has almost entirely lost its village like feel. None the less its very soothing to return to one’s place of origin. I spent one of the most memorable summer’s of my life with my Bha and Didi in Valsad. Coming back just refreshed all those memories.

The day I came to Daman was the same day I returned in the very early morning hours from Mahabaleshwar. The trip to Mahabaleshwar was to say the least amazingly memorable. Since its the monsoon season and Mahabaleshwar is 4500 feet up we were literally walking in clouds the entire time, of course because of who I am and who I was with the skies did clear up to afford us some excellent views. When Nirav and I went radio antennae tower climbing I had the water in the air forming drops directally on my hair and glasses it was just an amazing experience. This is all going on as I am rebonding with friends from a time long gone. Maulik is my older brother by a month and we grew up together until I left India. Kalpesh and Jagesh are both my school friends. Nirav is Pramod uncle’s son, thus damn near a brother and Gaurav is my masi’s (mom’s sister) son thus also a brother. So with company like this in a location like Mahabaleshwar you can’t really go wrong. I doubt I will forget the political discussion we had the one night we did sleep there. Also the motion sickness inducing ride down the hills the night we left is also not going to be forgotten easily. I didn’t throw up but I’m quite sure Maulik threw up for both of us.

Tomorrow morning I’ll head back to Bombay via some fast train or the other, which by the way is a really fun way to travel. Then tomorrow night will be spent in Bombay and by Thursday afternoon Gaurav and I will be on Kovalam beach drinking coconut milk from coconuts and counting the clouds go by.

So until next time…enjoy the photos!

Posted by Mr. Keyur at 02:30 AM | Comments (1) | TrackBack

July 08, 2003

thats the way it is

Its been a while since I’ve updated. Yea I know I suck, but life here just totally moves differently. I’ve rarely had anytime to my self. The past two weeks have been spent being on a job hunt and making sure everyone is visited. The travelling and vacationing will start on the night of the 9th and end the morning of the 27th.

So I’ve finally had the opportunity to soak up life here and I can’t start putting into words how great that feels. Heres an honest try.…

  • I’ve climbed onto and off of the local trains during peak rush hours without falling or getting pickpocketed.

  • I’ve fallen down more than 6 times in the shower.

  • I’ve seen a motorcycle accident.

  • I’ve seen the guy on the motorcycle get up and then kick the ever living shit out of the rickshaw driver that caused it.

  • I’ve seen a train accident with a person.…I didn’t want to see it.

  • I’ve found and eaten almost all of my favourite foods in Bombay.

  • I’ve taken a walk up and down Marine Drive (Queen’s Necklace).

  • I’ve had way too much ThumsUp!

  • I’ve had problems speaking English because both accents come out at once.

  • I’ve had a lot of fun speaking Hindi and Gujarati again casually.

  • I’ve found out that I’m 2 people away from Amitabh Bachan and could potentially meet my all time favourite actor, yes even more so than Arnold.

  • I’ve gotten really sick of the slow pace of business activity here.

  • I’ve gotten actually sick with mild cold and slight fever, but I’m done with that now.

  • I’ve got “conjunctivitis” in my right eye.

  • I’ve been in a verbal fight with someone on the train because they were upset I hit them when I climbed on with a big bag.

  • I’ve inadvertently slammed my open palm into the face of a man who was trying to get off the train I was trying to get on.

  • I’ve been packed into a train so tight that limit of the distance between my crotch and the ass of the guy in front of me approached zero and then became zero.

  • I’ve flown a kite.

  • I’ve climbed onto the water tank of an 8 story building when I shouldn’t have and gotten yelled at by an aunty.

  • I’ve participated in cable theft.

  • I managed to fully convince a rickshaw driver during a short trip that I live and work in Bombay.

  • I’ve had a people on the local trains stop staring at me now.

  • I’ve seen the the extent of the sadness a family experiences when a US visa application is rejected

  • I’ve had to respectfully talk to a man who paid dowry for his daughter’s marriage and accepted dowry when he married his son.

  • I’ve seen the anguish parents undergo as they try and get their children married.

  • I’ve realized that India loves cement, even though its coarse and nastry and can’t look nearly as good as concrete.

  • I’ve had fresh coconut milk straight from a coconut. Its really good!

  • I’ve taken a piss in a pile of junk because there aren’t enough public restrooms.

  • I’ve realized that people in Bombay are just glad they are surviving.

  • I’ve also realized that since people are just surving they haven’t got time to question the status quo or try and do anything about it.

  • I’ve pretty much accepted that anyone with any sort of political clout can be bought.

  • I’ve discovered that there open public space in Bombay is like an invitation for squatters.

  • I’ve seen squatters turn their cardboard huts into semi-permanent brick huts within two weeks.

  • I’ve realized that the Indian educational system as it stands will only produce socially inept bookworms or fake geniuses from rich families who buy their education.

  • I’ve realized that if theres something you need, no matter how obscure it is, there is a very good chance you already know someone who knows how to get it.

  • I’ve learned that haphazard social networking is one of India’s greatest strengths and weaknesses.

  • Indians consistenly over-promise and under-deliver.

  • I’ve realized that it’s getting rather late here and I should atleast consider getting myself to sleep.

Also no SMS messages received except from the gal in Canada.

I’ll be leaving for Mahabaleshwar on night of the 9th and returning mornning of the 12th.
I’ll leave again on the 12th in the afternoon returning sometime late on the 15th.
Lastly I’ll be leaving for my trip south on the morning of the 17th and returning on the morning of the 27th. Plan is to hit: Trivendrum, Kovalam, Kanyakumari, Rameshwaram, Madurai, Kodaikannal, Munar, Kumarkom and Kochi in that order.

I’ll try and update while I’m on the road, but no promises. Hope all of yous are holding it down well on the other side of the ball.

Posted by Mr. Keyur at 03:39 PM | Comments (3) | TrackBack